Surf and sun

afternoon lunch and nap time

Drove a bit further north late yesterday based on a recommendation from the surf shop owner. This place would be a bit protected from the west winds and a beach break more suitable for our surfing skills. Surfed a bit before sunset. Tried out a different type of board called a fish. Between the new board, howling winds and bone chilling water temp, i didn’t catch much but a good workout. Cindy was able to pick off a few nice ones on her 8′ 6″ board.

Parked the vans down a bit further on level ground, made a warm, fried rice meal with a glass of vino and went to bed for a good night’s rest. Surfing always leads to intense hunger, a cold beverage and a nap. Woke up this morning to some clouds and more wind, but we headed out to give it a shot around 8am. Definitely finding it difficult to surf in the cold water, limbs don’t seem to work as quickly. Sorta looking forward to warmer surfing in Tahiti…

rental boards in action